Recently I was playing with my super Nintendo using my PVM pictured above. I bought it used in pretty good physical condition. The picture and geometry were decent. This picture was taken using composite input a day before it broke.
As I often do, I took a break to go outside and get some fresh air and focus on my eyes on something else. My wife came running up to me in a panic telling me that the set made a lout crack and a couple pop sounds. I rushed in to kill power to it. I smelled some funkiness so I instantly started looking for bad capacitors.
Visually all the capacitors looked good. I didn’t see any neckglow when I turned it on so I decided to check out the neck board.
Gah. Nothing strikingly obvious. Clean. Usually these kinds of problems are just staring right at me. I guess this one was a little sneaky. I can hear the 15hz noise when I turned it on, so at first I ruled out the flyback transformer.
I was wrong. Most likely the flyback is to blame. Not a hard fix…but finding the right part might be a pain in the ass. A quick search didn’t bring up a plethora of replacements. Time to get searching and hope I can find one that doesn’t need to be modified. Oh and it’s a strange package that doesn’t directly connect to the anode cap. The anode wire goes to a small plug which goes into another part that connects to the cap.
After looking at a couple service manuals I learned this weird red box is an h-stat regulator. I’m going to move forward on this project assuming it’s functional, but we’ll see!
After doing some research I found a NOS fly back with a replacement part number “1-439-322-11” which matches the replacement part number of the original fly back “1-439-322-12” therefore it should be electrically similar enough to get things working. I did notice that the center pin which seems to be connected to a retainer clip which doesn’t come through the bottom like on the original. It’s connected to ground. I’m assuming this is for rigidity so I’m not going to fuss over it too much.
I know it’s a terrible picture but this is the new flyback soldered in place. Residue from some of the old crappy flux ruined this beauty shot. You may notice that B+ looks funky. The pad partially lifted and tore because I didn’t use a big enough tip on my FR-301 solder pump so I bumped the temperatures a little and circled around the joint. Half Pad lifted. Woops!
Lesson: Be patient and get the right tips. This was totally preventable.
Instructions for this splice kit seemed straightforward but it seemed odd to me that the two cups would just rest against each other. It turns out this is by design.
Here you can see the fully assembled splice tucked away behind the h-stat. Now for the moment of truth….
Success! The set lives to see another day and I didn’t take a corona discharge to the head! Sometimes it’s the little things that matter most.
Well, that was pretty exciting. Now I can get back to playing super Nintendo.
So the flyback model “1-439-322-11” indeed does work for fixing a PVM-1910Q. I haven’t found this information in any forums so hopefully it helps somebody here.